What we repair, and what usually goes wrong

Fridge and freezer repair

A fridge that has stopped cooling is rarely dead. Nine times out of ten it's a failed defrost heater or thermostat, a seized evaporator fan, or a start relay on the compressor. We test the sealed system before recommending anything drastic.

We also handle water and ice dispenser faults, door seal replacement and drain line blockages — the usual cause of water pooling in the crisper.

Not cooling · freezer frosting over · water under the drawers · running constantly · clicking then silence

Washer repair

Front loaders, top loaders and stacked units. A washer that won't drain is usually a blocked pump filter or a failed drain pump; one that won't spin is often a worn belt, a door lock switch, or worn shock absorbers letting the drum knock.

Leaks are worth acting on quickly — a slow door seal leak can rot a laundry room floor before you notice it.

Won't drain · won't spin · leaking · violent shaking · door won't unlock · error code on the display

Dryer repair

Gas and electric. If the drum turns but there's no heat, the cause is almost always the heating element, a thermostat or a blown thermal fuse — and a blown fuse usually means the venting is restricted, so we check that too.

A squeal or rumble is normally the drum rollers or idler pulley. A burning smell means stop using it and call.

No heat · clothes still damp after two cycles · won't start · squealing · burning smell · drum not turning

Dishwasher repair

Dishes coming out dirty is usually a mechanical problem, not a detergent problem: clogged spray arms, a worn wash pump, or a failing circulation motor. Standing water in the base points to the drain pump or a blocked air gap.

We also fix door latch and hinge faults, heating element failures and the leaks that show up at the bottom of the door.

Dishes still dirty · standing water · leaking from the door · won't drain · won't start a cycle

Range and cooktop repair

Gas and electric ranges, cooktops and wall ovens. A gas burner that clicks but won't light is generally a dirty or cracked igniter. An oven that runs hot or cold is usually the sensor or a control board that's drifted out of calibration.

On electric models, a dead element or a burnt terminal block is the common culprit behind one side losing power.

Burner won't light · oven won't reach temperature · food burning or undercooking · clicking that won't stop · no power to one element

Microwave repair

Countertop, built-in and over-the-range. A microwave that runs but doesn't heat is normally the magnetron, diode or high-voltage capacitor. Door latch switches are the other frequent failure.

Honest note: if yours is an inexpensive countertop model, replacing it often costs less than the repair. We'll say so rather than take the job.

Runs but food stays cold · sparking inside · turntable stuck · door won't latch · buttons unresponsive

Hood fan repair

Weak extraction is usually years of grease on the blower wheel, not a failed motor. We clean, re-balance and replace where needed, and check that the ducting actually vents where it should.

Weak suction · loud rattle or hum · lights not working · fan won't switch off · smoke hanging in the kitchen

Ice maker repair

Built-in fridge ice makers and standalone units, residential and commercial. No ice is usually a frozen fill tube, a failed water inlet valve or a jammed ejector. Small or hollow cubes point to low water pressure or a partially blocked line.

For cafés and restaurants we can usually prioritise same-day — a dead ice machine is a closed business.

No ice at all · hollow or undersized cubes · slow production · leaking · ice tastes off